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Then he'd be back at it until lunchtime at noon. to 8:00 a.m., filling a 50-kilo (110-pound) sack with coca leaves, and take a break for breakfast. It was boiling hot, but you had to wear long sleeves and pants, and still a lot of people got yellow fever and dengue fever.' He'd work for three hours, from 5:00 a.m. 'After 5:00 p.m., it was just mosquitoes. on a dirt floor with 20 other people, every man under his own mosquito net.

You can still see the scars on my hands.' The guerrillas don't issue gloves, and Diego was a city boy with soft hands: 'It was really funny to everybody else but hard for me,' he said. (We conducted our interviews over Skype, and his current girlfriend-not the one he had when he joined the coca trade-laughed in the background: 'That is your measurement for everything!') He was set to work picking coca leaves, which are thick and sharp. The camp, Diego said, was maybe six football fields big. Others were delivering goods (the beans and rice and beer) to the temporary village that serviced the camp-like an old Alaskan gold rush village, except in a tropical jungle patrolled by guerrilla soldiers with machine guns. Some of Diego's fellow travelers were laborers, like him. The speedboat traveled through swamps and up rivers, stopping only to refuel. He had no idea where he was or where they were going, which was the point. He was then loaded onto a speedboat that, he said, went 90 miles an hour for seven hours. After a several- hour nighttime journey with 70 or 80 other people (plus rice, beans, beer, and other staples bound for the camp), they arrived at a dock. Buenaventura, Diego said, is 'hell on earth.' With no tourism to speak of, the government has limited incentive (or ability) to crack down on the leftist guerrillas, right-wing paramilitaries, and narcos who walk the streets with their guns out in the open.Дiego remembers getting on a ferry that left Buenaventura at 5:00 p.m. Buenaventura has the highest murder rate in Colombia, the New York Times reported in 2007, and when Diego was there, around 2000, Colombia had the highest murder rate in the world. His grandmother told him to go to Buenaventura, a port city on Colombia's Pacific coast and one of the most dangerous cities in the western hemisphere.

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